And it changes every time you adjust your aperture, and focal length, so that’s no good. If you focus here, your photo will be acceptably sharp from anywhere 4.5 feet in front of your camera, all the way to infinity.īut that’s maybe a little bit too specific. Your hyperfocal distance is roughly 9 feet. You’re also shooting on a Canon crop sensor (slightly smaller than Nikon).
Let’s say you’re shooting a landscape, and your aperture is f/11, and your focal length is 24mm. So now with your newfound knowledge on the hyperfocal distance, you will either be very confused as to where to focus in a landscape, or darn sure that you shouldn’t focus to infinity. If you focus at infinity, you lose lots of your depth of field, because there will be barely any focus infront of infinity, and nothing behind the focus (because you’re already focused to infinity).ĭon’t focus to infinity, unless you’re trying to focus on a single subject, located at infinity. I’ll go into this in further detail in another post, but for now, this is what you need to know:
#Fokus photo download#
Don’t bother trying to work it out yourself, just download an app for your phone, or follow the general rules I’m going to teach you in this post. Working out your hyperfocal distance involves complicated maths which involves your distance from a subject, your f/stop, your focal length, and the size of your sensor.
Half of the distance between the hyperfocal length and the lens will also remain acceptably sharp too. Without boring you, or going into too much detail (this subject is worthy of a post itself), your hyperfocal distance is the distance at which you focus, where everything after it (stretching to infinity distance) remains acceptably sharp. There’s also another factor called your hyperfocal distance. The depth of field is largely dependant on your aperture, as well as your distance from the subject. You don’t need to fully understand how the following works, but you do need to understand the concept.
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